Find Out All The Paint System To Spray Paint Your Own Car

There are three basic kinds of paints which can be used to paint cars Enamel, Urethane and Lacquer, but for home users to understand these kinds easily we can further divide them into many like Acrylic Enamel, Urethane, Acrylic Lacquer, Base coat/Clear coat, Water-based, etc, which you can use to paint your cars. Every kind has its own good and bad effects. Brands also matter a lot because they give us reliable guarantee about the product.

There are quite a few types of Enamels. Most people in the industry don't like Enamels although Acrylic Enamel is the best of the worst. This type of finish is Good but not Excellent as it can dull after a few years and cannot be Buff Polished properly like Acrylic Lacquer. If you are going to paint your car go for Acrylic Lacquer it's easy to Spray on and if you get a run, a quick rub down and Blow in another coat of paint . It dries very quickly and you should get a Gloss of the gun, if you don't when it's fully dry after a few days a quick Buff over will give you a fantastic finish.

Most professional can spray urethane paints. If you're sending your car to a shop for painting, then by all means have them use urethane paint as it produces an incredibly tough finish-some people don't like the slightly plastic appearance, however, so look at samples before you commit. If you're spraying the car yourself, then only venture into urethane paints if you have the proper safety gear (an exterior forced air respirator mask with air pump-great for general use in the shop). Urethane doesn't run or sag as readily as the enamel, dries faster, and doesn't attract insects as much as enamel. Enamel is cheaper, less toxic while spraying, and can be kept in the spray cup longer (has a longer pot life).

Base coat/Clear coat painting is more difficult than acrylic enamel. The most difficult is putting on the clear coat without runs and getting it just right. 2-3 coats of basecoat should be sufficient for coverage. Be sure to allow the solvents in the paint to "flash-off" between coats to prevent drying problems."Flash-off" is the evaporating of the solvents in the paint. 5-10 minutes between coats is recommended based on temperature. A hazy finish means the paint has flashed-off.

Water based car paints are the paints which use water as an solvent and are less toxic and therefor easy to use and most favorite by the manufacturers and home users. The draw back of water based paints are that they do not give very glossy look like enamel.

Learn the easiest way to learn car spray paint with free videos and lessons. SprayPaintSecrets will give you the step by step guide you need to learn how to spray paint or do bodywork repair on your car.

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This post was written by Frank Keenan on March 10, 2010

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How To Use Aerosol Spray Paints For Car Spray Painting

by Ulrich Fieldman

So you just finished putting that very first coat of paint on that car that you have been mending and it looks great. You did not realise that you had to the talent to spray paint a car. The only problem is youve run out of time and cant get the second coat on. Well that's genuinely not going to be a problem, the cars in a protected area so you can get back at it next week. You just stick the caps on the spray cans and stick them on the shelf for the time youre gone.

A week goes by and you're prepared to go ahead and spray paint the car, or at least get the second coat on. You're all set up you've pulled the cans of spray paint off the shelf, and popped the lid on one of them. Then it doesn't seem to matter how hard you press the nozzle of the spray can nothing comes out. You remember that you didnt use it and it is almost full. And then you realise it must be clogged. No problem you simply get a thin piece of wire and try to clean it out.

After various tries you realize it just isn't going to clear, so you end up throwing an almost full can of rather expensive spray paint away. Then you remember what a buddy told you about spray paints. When you are done using them you must turn the can upside down and spray the paint for few seconds. This can be done on a piece of cardboard. It will clear all the excess spray out of the nozzle so next time you go to use it, it wont be blocked. A good lesson learned.

You didn't realize the problems that can occur when you went to spray paint a car, but gratefully youve few cans of paint left so you can get on with it. You give the cans a couple of shakes and at long last out comes the paint. Theres one major trouble though, the colour doesn't look quite idnetical. The label says it's the same color but what in the world is the problem here? In reality you most likely didnt shake well so the color wasnt decently mixed. You must shake the can quickly you would hear the mixer ball inside the can rattle. Continue shaking for at least 3 to 4 minutes. Likewise at regular intervals while youre spraying give the can a hard shake also. This would ensure that your paint remains well-mixed and would equally distribute the colour when you apply it. Bear in mind you must be as methodical when you go to spray paint a car, as you will a fine piece of furniture.

Another very important point to bear in mind is that to spray paint a car is a large job, and most likely you will be abit tired afterward. Clean up is really fundamental and that means making sure that you cleaned the nozzle of the spray as we talked about. Other really essential thing to bear in mind is to keep your paints safely. Do not leave them in areas where they can dry up or freeze up.

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Posted under Cars

This post was written by Ulrich Fieldman on July 27, 2009

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Discover All About Primers and Paint System For Car Spray Painting

by Ulrich Fieldman

Novices that are entering into painting a car for the very first time, dont realise that there are various primers and paint systems available. There're choices that've to be make as to which ones to go with. It must also be realised that several of these systems could be chemically volatile, and must be utilised with extreme caution. That doesnt mean you should be dubious about utilising them, it signifies that you must know what you are doing and use the right precautions.

There're the air-dry type cellulose systems for repair, and then there're two pack products. These're much more durable and professional but are the ones that demand caution.

For the primers there's the etching primer. This's a primer base to which a form of acid is added. You can purchase several one step primers that also come in aerosol form but they don't do quite the same high quality job that the commercial acid based ones do. Be certain to follow the directions precisely as the product says.

Another kind of primer you might hear about or even need is the wash primers. These do not have whatsoever fillers and are applied in one wet coat over whatsoever of the areas displaying the bare metal. The etch primer fillers are a bit different because they've a few basic filling qualities. These're applied in 2 to 3 wet coats, allowing 10-20 mins between each application.

A heavier kind of primer fillers or surfacers are available that contain filling products. Most of the sprayable products are designed for filling tiny surfaces and scratches not dents, holes our deep scratches.

Air dry is more often your primary cellulose type products. They dry fast but they don't have the identical ability to fill the area. You can also run the risk of it shrinking once it dries out.

You would require to determine if you are contented working with the light aerosol fillers or if you want to go with the more extreme 2 pack primer fillers. Keep in mind these've to be mixed exactly according to directions, and applied as said in the instructions. There're health risks that you must safe guard against too. In the long run they do provide a much stunning finish, but you have to decide does the job youre doing require this. If not then stick with the aerosol products. Then again, if youre not familiar at all with primers, then maybe you could get various expert help or advise on the matter.

Be it which kind you decide to go with , they all have the amount of applications that will be needed. Then they would teach you on what your future steps are after drying for instance how many coats are necessary and how much sanding is needed.

There're new products coming out on the market constantly. Its always a great idea to check with your supplier as to what they recommend. They are commonly well versed in the products they carry and can give you some really good advice.

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This post was written by Ulrich Fieldman on July 22, 2009

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